Monday 29 July 2013

Review: 'David Bowie Is' - V & A Museum


If there could be a blueprint for how to mastermind the perfect cultural renaissance, David Bowie in 2013 may well have encapsulated that Lazarus ideal. Resigned to a hermetic hush since his 2003 brush with mortality, the last decade of retirement has only sporadically amplified into brief public appearances.

Taking the music world completely by surprise by announcing a new album in January was yet another major magic trick, a masterful coup d’etat, from the artist who, above all others in the second half of the 20th century, has been the conjurer at the forefront of surprise, shock and reinvention. Riding in the slipstream of fervent Bowie hysteria – fuelled by the unassailable fact that the album, when it arrived, was a remarkable return to form – the Victoria & Albert museum unveiled plans for a ‘blockbuster’ Bowie retrospective, with demand quickly outstripping availability. In the absence, for now at least, of any planned live appearances, this may well be the closest experience people will get.

And so, having pre-booked 3-and-a-half months in advance for one of the last remaining time slots, I went along on a scorching July weekday afternoon to experience for myself what critics had been clambering over each other to ladle on bountiful praise.

It certainly is a well-stocked and comprehensive exhibition of artefacts; clearly Bowie has spent his whole career hording costumes and stage props with a show of this magnitude in mind. It feels fresh and invigorating – big screens draw you in to various distinct eras of his career whilst relevant props are placed like satellites around the moving images. As you progress through, the corresponding music and commentary pieces are triggered via headsets. Although in principle this is an interesting concept, often I found the audio dropped in and out like a phone signal on a train, leaving me to try and reorient my position in order to spark the sound into life once again.

One of the prevailing impressions to be left with is the extent of Bowie’s constantly inquisitive, sponge-like absorption of the cultural landscape, his appropriation of whole swathes of influences, using and discarding them at will. From mime and performance art, to subversive literature (Ballard, Burroughs, Burgess et al), to Japanese costume design, Dadaist theatre of the Weimar Republic, nihilist philosophy (Nietzsche), to avant garde cinema (‘Metropolis’, ‘The Cabinet of Dr. Caligari’, etc.); all were experienced and siphoned through into his own artistic mission statements.

However, the exhibition is not without some flaws. The opening sections begin, predictably, by covering Bowie’s upbringing, roots and early musical endeavours, before moving onto his commercial break-through with the ‘Space Oddity’ album. After that the exhibition opens up both spatially and thematically, as though the curators suddenly decided to abandon any attempt at chronology. The effect of this diluting of any tangible cohesion is quite jarring, with costumes and stage props from the early-70s being placed side-by-side with those from the mid-90s, seemingly at random.

The other particular down-side was just how busy it was. Of course, this is to be expected with any ‘blockbuster’ exhibition and you are never going to enjoy the perfect viewing experience. But by allocating tickets according to specific time slots, and subsequently all tickets selling out, the result is that no matter what time you opt for, the attendance will be at a constantly high density. This could be overlooked were it not for the proliferation of so many small scale items of memorabilia, text plates and other miscellany that force you to effectively queue your way round them in a kind of frustrating assembly line. All this, realistically, then allows for is the most cursory of glances at items such as hand-written lyric sheets and photo negative strips that I felt warranted a lot more attention.

Of course it could be argued that such grievances are merely churlish given the event’s scale of publicity and the seemingly universal appeal of its subject. For any fan it is, undoubtedly, a treat to be granted such rare access to these treasures, and despite my misgivings, the undeniable outcome is to leave feeling even more in awe of a creative artist who imbues that oft misused, but in this case surely justified, label of genius.

Tuesday 23 July 2013

Tearing the city at the seams #11 - The Audacity of the Urban City Runner

In recent years, psychogeography has experienced something of a fervent influential resurgence, to the extent at which it has now become ambiguous by its very elasticity. You can trace the origins of psychogeography back to writers like Defoe, Blake, de Quincey, and even Dickens with his ‘night walks’. In the mid-20th century it gestated into a niche and transgressive pursuit at the hands of the Paris Situationist movement with writer-flanuers like Guy Debord; before progressing, through the work of contemporary writers such as Iain Sinclair, Will Self and Peter Ackroyd, into a somewhat mainstream concern. All manner of people are now liable to reassess their relationship with their urban environs, to grab hold of the mechanised snow-globe in which they find themselves confined and shake it into flux.

Yet if I could loosen the psychogeographic belt from around its expansive girth by one more notch to force feed another mouthful of interpretative theory, I should like to argue the case for an alternative aspect that I think has been, heretofore, downright ignored.

This alternative strand to which I refer is urban running; or, as I think it should be coined, ‘psycho-vascular geography’. My feeling is that this practice has been neglected for too long, almost like the dinner party guest that all other attendees are complicit in refusing to acknowledge or engage in conversation. Perhaps condemned as inappropriate or not at all relevant to the intrinsic hypothesis; insufficiently high-brow to pique the imaginations of the common practitioners.

Merlin Coverley, in his book ‘Psychogeography’, attempts to tie down the flailing limbs of the term into a concise definition:

‘…this act of walking is an urban affair and, in cities that are increasingly hostile to the pedestrian, it inevitably becomes an act of subversion…the act of walking is seen as contrary to the spirit of the modern city.’

Despite this, it remains the case, in most cities, that walking from point A to point B is still a necessary activity, however inconsequential or perfunctory those distances may be, and however sternly into the narrow matrices of habit and routine they are fixed. (I say most cities, although in places such as Los Angeles the act of walking has been subjugated in favour of vehicular transit to the point of it now being almost taboo to partake in it.) Indeed, it is my conviction that running holds that illustrious status of being contrary to the spirit of the city, kicking against the transitory conventions and orthodoxies, as the more profound act of subversion.

Fundamentally, cities are not designed for extensive aerobic activity; they are congested (with both motorised and pedestrian traffic), polluted, and often their very design tacitly dissuades with its miscellany of bus shelters, walkways, railing, ramparts and barriers. Areas are annexed off so as to maintain the fluid dynamic of the streets, the steady motion of people flowing to and from their allotted destinations.

Not only this, but human traffic itself becomes a substantial impediment. Only when locked into a run and weaving through the fray do you gain a glimpse of peoples’ often maddening lack of fluid movement, or sense of assertive direction. Instead, people tend to drift at random across pavements; others will veer into a change of direction with the exaggerated turning circle of an oil tanker. Others, locked into their technological appendages, torpedo their way along without recourse to anything around them. The runner must be uniquely attuned to and be able to read the developing narrative of the road ahead with the same malleability as the cyclist, or else all rhythm and pace will sporadically be curtailed.

By its very nature, the city negates the concept of easy running and, therefore, seeks to limit such activity to specially demarcated hubs within the urban landscape – public parks for instance – or that other much more troubling, and yet commercially-viable, zone of contained and prescribed exercise, the gym.

All my experience of gyms can be summed up as a sensation of mild horror. It isn’t after very long spent in one of these places that you come to see them as little more than sweaty sanatoria, populated by inmates imprisoned by their collective delusions at self-improvement, desperate to increase their personal shares in the physical stock market. They are a commodified means for people to feed the illusion that, firstly, they can take effective control of their lives, and secondly, that they can remake themselves into a more socially acceptable mould.

Leaving aside the cardio-vascular and venturing inside the weight-lifting area, you are suddenly plunged into a homoerotic menagerie of (predominantly) men, reduced to their basest instincts of brawn and the notion of being in physical contest with everyone else in the vicinity. Indeed, I always felt it was possible that the toxic cocktail of testosterone and insecurity could at any moment ignite with everyone either greasing up and fucking each other, or tearing one another limb from limb as though they were suddenly back in gladiatorial Rome. In my eyes, the act of formation running on a treadmill, gazing up at a bank of TV screens, is scarcely more biologically advanced than a hamster going round and round in a wheel.

Gyms are to urban running what paperback chick-lit is to literary fiction – socially acceptable responses to a barely-suppressed sense of self-guilt, homogenised and diluted of any subversive value or individual merit. Entering a gym is akin to entering a supermarket or an airport terminal; it is another of Marc Auge’s ‘non-places’, in which humans transiently and affectlessly correspond to the environment in which they conduct a particular activity.

I am similarly wary of that annual event at which London gives in to the might of the urban runner – the Marathon. Marathons seem to me to be the tacit justification of an inherently obsessive activity by the means of mass participation. Yet further evidence of the enforced collectivism of entirely solitary pursuits – writing courses and literary festivals being other such examples. There’s no denying the motivating spirit a spectacle such as a marathon can instil in people, but that doesn’t change the reality that on Marathon Day, all that happens is that London’s streets become a giant treadmill for the masses, a prescribed gym with its own shifting scenery. As a side note, I don’t feel this comparison between long-distance running and writing is entirely spurious. Indeed, Haruki Murakami wrote, ‘…most of what I know about writing fiction I learned by running every day. You need to find a balance between both focus and endurance.’

For me, the main crux of my reasoning for running’s subversive supremacy over walking is precisely that which has been commonly attributed to the latter pursuit. It represents the abandonment of the windshield mentality which has developed drastically throughout the last century with the dominance of the car, cinema and television. The power of the spectacle is writ large by film glamour and reconstituted by the modes of our mechanised transit around the urban environment. My claim in terms of the prestige of running is that this effective abandonment is heightened in intensity many times over the experience of a long-distance city walk.

When running, your immediate surroundings become newly animated with an almost reified intangibility. The familiarity of places and infrastructure, their functionality and purpose, become diluted in their potency. The environs become almost reimagined in the mind of the runner as being there to serve his or her purpose. Every obstacle or impediment, each zone of prescribed pedestrian access designed to funnel easy migration, becomes ever more lucidly defined from its usual artifice; in a way is only really visible to the runner, who must adapt and respond to them with much more urgency.

Each gradient change, ground type and topographical feature becomes amplified beneath the pounding feet of the runner; who, through necessity, must react to this changing terra firma, however negligible it might be to the walker, as though your feet were consciously tracing every contour line of the geography around them. Simply by accelerating the tempo at which you actively perceive the space around you, it is fulfilling a new role and functionality.

At this juncture, please let me be clear. I am not one of those insufferable fitness fanatics who wear shirts several sizes too small for them in all seasons so as to accentuate their heaving musculature; I began running home from work purely for financial reasons. Now though, I enjoy finding disparate points of intrigue on a city map and using running as a means of linking them together. My motivation for this is the conviction – correct or not – that scarcely anyone else will have run (or even walked) the same route and for the same purpose.

My more conservative running route home from work, from just off of Portland Place to Brixton Hill, embodies most of the illogical follies of the urban runner. I attempt to dart through the tuna fleet of consumers on Oxford Street and down Bond Street, inhale the noxious pollutants belched out by buses along Millbank, before the final furlong along Brixton Road and up the hill as, with every pace, aching tendons and ligaments grind against bone, ingraining the fissures for future injuries. But then again, how many can say they check their time progress by the hands of Big Ben whilst making a diagonal dash across Parliament Square?!

When the run, for whatever reason, is going badly it can feel as though you’ve submerged yourself in a painful ice bath, a thousand needles jabbing away at your muscles with the incessant rhythm of a printing press. Each pace suddenly becomes enmeshed with a viscous fatigue, as though you were trying to run through glue. At its worst, your lungs can feel like knives are being slowly inserted just below the ribcage. You can sense this dreaded ‘stitch’ setting in long before it fully takes hold; the lactic acid corroding through any endorphins or residual energy. All you can do is zero-in on the metronome of your own breathing, focus on the mechanical principles of your own fuel economy, and compel yourself forwards, as though the very act of giving in and stopping were some heinous, unforgiveable crime.

On runs like this, the environment around you shrinks into the very periphery of your consciousness, leaving the most negligible of impressions. I often think of it in comparison with Ballard who said of his stance as a futurist - ‘I’m only interested in the next five minutes’. Similarly, the fatigued and suffering runner is only interested in, indeed can only visualise, the next five paces. Everything else is irrelevant, divested of all tangibility.

On the flip side though, you may at times experience that elusive sensation ‘the runner’s high’. Not being au fait with hallucinogens, I can only make a vague comparison in ignorance. The endorphins released through cardio-vascular activity serve to alleviate pain. Should the activity be sufficiently rigorous or intense, it can elevate you into a kind of transcendental, meditative state in which you feel completely purged of exhaustion or discomfort and are inflated with an air of invincibility; a feeling that you could continue running for many hours and that you would be unable to stop even if you wanted to. In this state, the landscape feels imbued with an almost fluid translucency, shimmering with heat-haze ripples, everything is tinged with a faint euphoria. You feel as though the city streets are almost being dictated by your own imagination. Ideas, metaphors, aphorisms, images, all pinwheel through my mind as though they were competitors overtaking me in this physical race. As Alan Sillitoe wrote, ‘…I knew what the loneliness of the long-distance runner running across country felt like, realising that as far as I was concerned the feeling was the only honest and realness there was in the world and I knowing it would be no different ever, no matter what I felt at odd times, and no matter what anybody else tried to tell me’.

At risk of appearing to use poetic licence too liberally as a means to exaggerate, I must emphasise the difficulty of conveying this sensation to a non- or inexperienced runner. All I can say is that those familiar with the more sedentary narcotic ‘rush’ will have a closer understanding. Of course, this adrenaline rush could also be attained by engaging in perhaps the only other forms of ‘subverting the spirit of the city’ that I am aware of. ‘Base jumping’ – a daredevil pursuit in which no urban structure is exempt from being adopted as a launching platform, the jumper going to more extreme measures to reconstruct the city for his or her own journey. Then there’s ‘urbex’ (urban exploring), whereby intrepid adventurers gain entry to out-of-bounds, often derelict or subterranean places and record their experiences. The most notable ‘urbex’ targets in London are the disused tube stations such as Aldwych and Battersea Power Station.

Of course, such a high whilst running is frustratingly elusive. It may flower and evaporate into an exhausting drudge in a matter of minutes or even less. But once experienced, I believe it is the potency of this ‘natural high’ that keeps people running. Certainly, the way in which it can melt the rigid and mundane opacity of the urban into something altogether more dream-like is what keeps my feet pounding the harsh pavements day after day.

Tuesday 9 July 2013

Culture - June

Books Read:

William Shakespeare - 'The Tempest'
Iain Sinclair - 'Lights Out for the Territory' (non-fiction)
Ivan S. Turgenev - 'Fathers and Sons'
G.K. Chesterton - 'The Man Who Was Thursday'
Keith Richards - 'Life' (auto-biography)

The first book I read this month was ‘Lights Out For The Territory’ by Iain Sinclair; a writer who has steered psychogeography firmly into the public consciousness during his career, and is perhaps the movement’s foremost proponent. The book was weighty with fervid imagery but I often found that it drifted off into rambling sections of foggy mysticism and complex references to mythology that made it, at times, quite hard work. My perseverance was rewarded though with some of the best writing I’ve seen regarding London; in particular, the opening essay detailing his walk round Hackney noting all the ‘invisible artworks’ of the graffiti tags; and the perambulation of St Paul’s and the City following the old ruins of the Roman Wall.

To revive myself from Sinclair, I read two excellent shorter novels – Turgenev’s ‘Fathers and Sons’ – the richness of the language was so engrossing (no one can paint such startling vivid character portraits as those Russian novelists!) – and G.K. Chesterton’s espionage satire ‘The Man Who Was Thursday’ – a kind of madcap psychogeographic novel, and one that I found brilliantly entertaining.


Films Watched:

'Naked' (Mike Leigh)
'Behind the Candelabra' (Steven Soderburgh) (at the Ritzy Picturehouse, Brixton)
'(500) Days of Summer' (Marc Webb)
'Solaris' (Andrei Tarkovsky) (rare 35mm print screening at the Renoir Curzon. Introduced by Will Self)
'Aguirre - Wrath of God' (Werner Herzog) (at the BFI Southbank)
'London' (Patrick Keiller)
'The Ballad of the Boy Soldier' (Werner Herzog)
'Dog Day Afternoon' (Sidney Lumet)


Mike Leigh’s film ‘Naked’ I found beguiling and yet, still now, I can’t quite make up my mind as to whether or not I liked it. The 10-12 minute section in which Johnny (a young nihilist in the vein of Bazarov from ‘Fathers & Sons’ transposed into Thatcher’s Britain) meets the security guard (who Johnny deduces has ‘the most boring job in the country’), and the heated existential debate they become embroiled in, has to be one of the most captivating cinematic sequences I think I’ve ever seen. Sadly, the rest of the film thereafter simply couldn’t match up to such a high standard and I was, overall, left feeling disappointed.

Steven Soderburgh’s ‘Behind the Candelabra’, I thoroughly enjoyed, mostly of course due to the flamboyant performances given by Michael Douglas and Matt Damon. I thought the film was well-measured in every respect; an intricate blend of camp humour, kitsch, domestic drama and grief.


Albums Played:

The Stone Roses - 'The Stone Roses'
The Stone Roses - 'Second Coming'
Jon Hopkins - 'Immunity'
Disclosure - 'Settle'
The Rolling Stones - 'Stripped' (live)
The Rolling Stones - 'Bridges of Babylon'
The Rolling Stones - 'No Security' (live)
The Rolling Stones - 'Live Licks' (live)
The Rolling Stones - 'A Bigger Bang'
Sigur Ros - 'Kveikur'
Beady Eye - 'BE'
Queens of the Stone Age - '...Like Clockwork'

I have long enjoyed listening to the electronic artist Jon Hopkins. His debut album 'Opalescent' is an incredibly enchanting album; his soundtrack to the indie film 'Monsters' was similarly haunting and poetic; whilst 'Insides' saw him experimenting with new harder-edged, murkier sounds. After a gig I saw him play with King Creosote in a New York basement, I drunkenly approached and told him that I thought he was 'the new Brian Eno', to which he looked graciously abashed. Reading the reviews for his new album 'Immunity', lo and behold, the very same accolades are being thrown his way! I think he is one of the most promising and interesting musicians around at the moment; someone who I believe elevates electronica into the same 'high art' sphere as classical music.

Sigur Ros' 'Kveikur' is a bold step forward for them after their more navel-gazing, by-the-numbers efforts of late. I was actually eagerly awaiting Beady Eye's second album 'BE' after heaving the first single 'Second Bite of the Apple'; a song that struck me as being the most intriguing thing Liam Gallagher had appeared on since that Death in Vegas track 'Scorpio Rising'. The album though, I found as uninspiring as its name; and, despite being superficially inoffensive and perfectly listenable, just reinforced to me how far behind him Gallagher Jr's glory days now seem.

Theatre:

'The Tempest' at the Globe Theatre, London

See separate review.

Gigs Attended:

The Stone Roses at Finsbury Park, London
(supported by Public Image Ltd., Johnny Marr, Miles Kane)

One of the big gigs of 2013 for me was seeing the reunited Stone Roses, a band I'd been listening to since the age of 16, back when I was dreaming away in my own school band. At this time, any notion of a reformation was almost inconceivable considering the acrimony between members. Given that they've been on a global lap of honour, its taken them over a year to finally play in London; surely now reaching the very crest of the nostalgic wave that before very much longer has to break.

Despite my affection for the Roses, as a listener I'd always had my reservations about Ian Brown's worth as a frontman, believing that the unrivalled (for their time) musical chemistry between Mani, Reni and John Squire was somewhat hindered by his vocal deficiencies. The weak link, if you like, that prevented them from being the most electrifyingly accomplished musical ensemble since Led Zeppelin.

Watching them live though, Brown's charisma and swagger truly make sense of the hyperbole; despite the tunefulness of his vocals occasionally flatlining, his sheer presence holds the audience - who are more than willing to sing for him - in his sway. They played a mesmerising 10-minute rendition of 'Fool's Gold'; 'Love Spreads' was as stompingly exuburant as I hoped it would be, definitely the epic Zeppelin song that-never-was; and the closing number 'I Am The Resurrection' was truly sensational.

Despite the overwhelmingly nostalgic slant of the gig (which was already close to peak levels thanks to opening acts Johnny Marr and Public Image Ltd.), that all served to make me question whether any contemporary bands could ever again inspire such a passionate following, the Stone Roses triumphed. Now though, they need to prove themselves with that difficult third album.

Exhibitions:

Jeff Koons at Brighton Museum
Petrie Museum at UCL, London

Wednesday 3 July 2013

Tearing the city at the seams #10 - A trip to Brighton


Everyone knows that first impressions are of the utmost importance, and so it was that on arriving in the seaside town of Brighton – or London-by-the-sea as it has historically been known – my first impression was, quite literally: rubbish. Mounds of it, banks of rubbish shored up along the roadsides, bins overflowing like garbage fountains, in places it was like the news footage of Leicester Square during the 1977 ‘winter of discontent’.

There was such an abundance on display that we – my girlfriend and I, that is – were instantly convinced that something must be amiss, for the simple reason that Brighton could hardly have maintained its fun-loving, escapist appeal if this were the normal order of things. And yet there was that lingering doubt that, perhaps, away from the watchful eye of the national media, some woefully inept town council had presided over this renaissance of litter. I half expected to reach the seafront and find families continuing to recline amongst the trash, building models out of it, forlorn donkeys trying to adapt to this insidious terrain.

But no, things had not declined so far. In a shop we spoke to an assistant there who told us how we had arrived on the climactic day of a 5-day strike by refuse workers. From what I could gather it appeared to be regarding a fresh staff intake resulting in a projected reduction of overtime hours available for existing staff. What better way to protest than by creating a whole load of extra overtime work for themselves! And what an oddly unique situation binmen on strike must find themselves in, I thought, since unlike train drivers or teachers, after a few days of striking the shit quite literally begins to pile up; in essence, a very visual and smelly reminder not only of their unrest but also their intrinsic necessity.

As strangers to Brighton though, we found the initial situation rather amusing. Primarily, I think because the previous evening we had watched the iconic mod film ‘Quadraphrenia’; a film about youth culture, angst, pills, music, rebellion and disenchantment. The film being so fresh in my mind, initially the disorder of things gave cause to think that we had arrived in Brighton the morning after the famous riots between the mods and rockers, and that what we were seeing was the aftermath of the chaos.

However, just as you shouldn’t judge a book by its cover, so I don’t like to judge a place by its civil unrests. After checking into our seafront hotel we walked along the promenade ensconced in the persistent sea mist. The skeletal West Pier sat marooned from the main land like an abandoned climbing frame in a flooded playground where only seagulls could now perch.


There's an intriguing resonance about the idea of derelict piers; sheared away as they are from the mainland, left adrift just offshore, bereft of any life or functionality. Extending the metaphor further, they are not simply decaying relics like normal structures, but are more effectively comatose. If you consider them in any depth (and who would really, but just humour me), the concept of a pier is rather a strange one anyway.

Aside from those with a more intrinsic utility, at ports and docks for instance, pleasure piers were originally designed so that tourists could experience the sea close-hand, since the large tidal ranges of many popular reosrts often meant that the sea was out of sight of the mainland. I still think they are structural oddities; in a sense, emblematic of the out-stretching infrastructure, as in the Victorian railways, that were able to interconnect disparate locales and bring in tourists, thereby securing the town's fortunes from then on.

I can't help but think that if, in an alternate version of history, piers had captured popular imagination in the same feverish way as skyscrapers did at the start of the 20th century, maybe now you'd have monolithic pier scans extending far out into the open oceans, confirming the high-modern status of the coastal city. (As it happens, the longest pleasure pier in the world is at Southend-on-sea which extends 1.3 miles into the Thames estuary).


Continuing on our way we passed the Grand Hotel; the Dealey Plaza-that-never-was, having survived the noteriety of the 1984 IRA bombing. Upon reaching the famous East Pier, we diverted inland to explore the Lanes network of curiosity shops and cafes. And also to locate the narrow alley just off East Street in which Phil Daniels and Leslie Ash escape from the rioting for a quick shag.

With such a pivotal location pinpointed and ticked off, we arrived at the Cultural Quarter, dominated by the Royal Pavillion, built by the Prince Regent in the 19th century. Its Indo-Saracenic architecture, part of a new wave of Indian influence reaching Britain due to the Empire, is still quite arresting, with its minarets and bulbous domes rising and falling in stately elegance.


Later on, sitting and eating fish & chips on the seafront as the sun began setting, casting shadows across the out-stretched arm of the pier that tried vainly to hold back the oncoming tide, you get a definite sense that you are participating in some kind of instinctive British ritual. Indeed, so innately British was the scene that I thought we could almost be modelling for a UKIP election campaign poster.

Of course, there is something inexplicably British about the seaside town experience, something almost touching on that noxiously patronising concept of ‘heritage’. With the summer sun shining (and perhaps the litter cleared), there is no doubt that towns such as Brighton blossom with a certain joyfulness that has meant the prolonged endurance of their appeal. However, it is also the case that on the more frequent grey and drizzly days, the unavoidably shabby and dishevelled reality is laid bare and accentuated. You need only go to Blackpool on a rainy day to see this hypothesis in evidence. The sunshine acts as the cosmetics that serve to beautify and transform a plain and, in some cases even unsightly, face.


The following morning when we went out on to the streets, there had clearly been a dawn raid to avert the army of litter from gaining any further ground. The morning sun had purged the grey mist of yesterday, and we were able to witness the true appeal of Brighton. I was left with the feeling that the fortunes of such a place can only have been hindered by the proliferating ease of foreign tourism, the jet-setting lifestyles and particularly the ‘golden era’ of low-cost air travel of the last 15-20 years. Why travel to Brighton when for a little extra time and money you could relax on the South of France, one of the Greek Islands or the Costas? Perhaps now, as we see fuel costs rising, and with it air fares and taxes, a resurgence of interest in resorts like Brighton will develop, as people once again turn to the great British seaside towns.